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Smoky Hollow: Part II — Raleigh’s Northern Edge By Jeff Havener
May 2026
Raleigh didn’t learn to be a city all at once. It learned through places like Oakwood and Boylan Heights. The organic, lot-by-lot grid growth of one neighborhood, and the engineered curves designed to fit the land of the other. Together, they form the architectural DNA of a capital city caught between its rigid past and a winding future.
Historic Oakwood and Boylan Heights were built around the same idea. Walkable neighborhoods at the edge of a growing downtown, shaped by a street grid, modest lots, and a pattern of daily life that didn’t depend on a car.
That framework is still there today. The streets still connect. The scale still feels human. But what those connections lead to is beginning to change, and not in the same way.
Historical Development: Speculation vs. Strategy
Oakwood’s Bottom-Up Growth
Shortly after the end of the Civil War, the Mordecai family sold large tracts of their plantation to investors. Over time, this transformed “the pine woods” just east of downtown into a structured residential district. In 1872, the first subdivision, Heck-Pool, was laid out by Colonel Jonathan Heck and partners. The new neighborhood’s layout followed William Christmas’s traditional grid design, extending outward from the city’s street pattern while maintaining a direct connection to the Capitol, rather than forming an isolated suburb.
They didn’t just sell lots; they built spec houses in the Second Empire and Queen Anne styles, establishing the new community’s presence. Historic Oakwood Cemetery established just prior, in 1869, created a permanent eastern boundary that prevented industrial encroachment on the new community and anchored its prestige.
The introduction of streetcars allowed the neighborhood to expand further east to its edge without feeling remote. Developers like Richard Stanhope Pullen, who later established Pullen Park, focused on smaller, infill lots, shifting away from the grander estates seen in the initial expansion. These are reflected in the Craftsman and bungalow style homes interspersed throughout the neighborhood today.
Oakwood expanded organically, lot by lot, and has some of the smallest historic lots in Raleigh, often around 1/10 acre. This creates the tightly packed “street wall” effect common in 19th-century cities. Its proximity to Saint Mary’s School and the Governor’s Mansion solidified its status as the preferred residence for Raleigh’s political and academic elite.
More importantly from a planning perspective, Oakwood became one of Raleigh’s last major neighborhoods built as a direct extension of the traditional downtown grid.
In contrast and as a “planned” 20th-century suburb, Boylan Heights was designed with more breathing room. Lots are significantly larger, typically ranging up to 1/4 acre. This additional size allows for the deep front porches and wide side yards characteristic of the Craftsman style.
Boylan’s Top-Down Vision
Boylan Heights represents Raleigh’s second major wave of suburban expansion, established in 1907 as a direct response to the housing shortage caused by early 20th-century economic growth. Unlike Oakwood’s traditional grid, Boylan Heights introduced a radical shift in urban planning for Raleigh. It became one of the city’s first curvilinear suburbs. The streets were designed to flow with the hilly terrain rather than fighting it, creating a more scenic, winding streetscape.
The layout treated topography as an asset rather than an obstacle. Even the neighborhood’s service functions were designed to support that experience. Unlike modern suburbs, Boylan Heights utilized rear service alleys for trash removal and parking. This kept the street-facing facades clean and encouraged a pedestrian-first environment.
The neighborhood was marketed as a model suburb for white middle-class families, often using restrictive covenants that were common in that era’s planning. Advertisements from 1909 urged citizens to “let the pennies pay for a beautiful lot,” claiming that saving 50 cents a day would secure a property.
Developers used deed restrictions to ensure that the largest, most expensive Queen Anne and Colonial Revival homes were built on South Boylan Avenue. Side streets were filled in with the now-iconic Craftsman and bungalows. A central plot originally intended for a community park was eventually developed into a neighborhood school, now Project Enlightenment, anchoring the community for families.
The Social Architecture of the Design
The Vertical Victorian
Oakwood was built for the 19th-century elite: governors, judges, and merchants. That is why you see the “Wedding Cake” Victorians: ornate, vertical, and designed to show off wealth through complex woodwork and towers. This verticality served a dual purpose in urban planning, maximizing high-density land use while positioning the home as a tool for social observation. By stacking living spaces on narrow lots, these homes created a consistent human-scale rhythm that encouraged pedestrian activity and provided the “eyes on the street” necessary for a safe, connected community.
Many porches in Oakwood feature the familiar light-blue ceilings, often described as “haint blue,” a small detail that’s both cultural and practical, helping reflect light and keep porches cooler in the summer months.
But the porch itself matters even more. With narrow lots and homes pulled close to the street, these spaces become extensions of daily life: places to sit, watch, and participate in the rhythm of the street. In Oakwood, everything happens in the front. It feels dense, bustling, and almost urban in its sidewalk intimacy.
The Horizontal Bungalow
Boylan Heights is more Midwestern. The alleys hide the “ugly” parts of life: garages and garbage. This makes the front streets feel like manicured parks, but it also means life is split between the social front porch and the private back alley, creating a more controlled, front-facing streetscape than Oakwood ever developed.
In contrast, Boylan Heights was designed for the rising professional class: professors, managers, and officials. The dominant style is the bungalow: horizontal, grounded, and focused on “honest” craftsmanship rather than frills. This shift in architectural philosophy reflects a move toward a more democratic urban form, where wide, low-slung porches encourage neighborhood cohesion rather than social distance.
Service alleys reinforced this organized aesthetic by pushing trash, coal, and deliveries behind the homes. This allowed Boylan Heights to maintain a pristine, front-facing streetscape that prioritized the social experience of the street, creating a more continuous pedestrian experience than Oakwood’s more integrated, grit-exposed lots ever achieved.
Preservation as a Survival Tactic
The North-South Expressway
In the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s, Oakwood was in decline. As the suburbs expanded outward, the neighborhood lost its desirability. The Second Empire houses were converted into multifamily duplexes, triplexes, and quadplexes and some ended up vacant. Some of those conversions still exist today, tucked into the fabric of both neighborhoods. They reflect an older pattern of incremental housing growth that added density without fundamentally changing the scale or walkability of the street.
Paradoxically, this period of decline helped preserve the architecture because landlords often chose to subdivide homes into rental units rather than modernize them. Fortunately, much of the original woodwork and structural details remained intact behind thin drywall, waiting for 1970s restorers to uncover them.
By the mid-20th century, Oakwood was facing death by planning. The city’s 1960s master plans prioritized automobile throughput over neighborhood preservation. The Raleigh Planning Commission proposed a massive four-lane highway, the North-South Expressway, that would have sliced through the heart of the district, specifically targeting what was then considered “blighted” Victorian housing.
Residents used the newly formed Society for the Preservation of Historic Oakwood to lobby for a radical change in zoning. They successfully argued for historic district designation, which fundamentally changed Raleigh’s planning philosophy from urban renewal to historic preservation.
During this period, many of the early restoration efforts were led by artists, preservationists, and LGBTQ+ residents drawn to the neighborhood’s affordable but deteriorating Victorian homes. Their grassroots activism was central to defeating the highway plans.
Oakwood is Raleigh’s first local historic district, meaning it has a Historic Development Commission that must approve any exterior changes. This layer of planning oversight is what maintains its 19th-century aesthetic today.
The Isolation Effect
Boylan Heights was physically isolated by its borders: the Norfolk Southern railroad to the north, Central Prison to the west, and Dorothea Dix Hospital to the south. Over time, those barriers became liabilities as wealthier residents moved farther west into newer suburbs. By the 1940s, absentee landlords became common. Stately homes were subdivided into boarding houses or apartments.
However, Boylan Heights’ isolation became one of its greatest planning advantages; trapped by railroad tracks and institutional land uses, it avoided the redevelopment pressures that erased many older neighborhoods during the mid-century.
Revitalization began in the late 1970s, led by the owners of Montfort Hall. Residents successfully lobbied Raleigh City Council for its Historic Overlay District status in 1984, and then for National Historic District status in 1985 to encourage renovation through tax credits.
Today, Boylan Heights is known as Raleigh’s “creative” historic district. Started in the 1990s, the Boylan Heights ArtWalk has turned front porches into art galleries every December, solidifying its identity as a hub for local artists.
The same preserved housing stock and walkable scale that attracted artists and reinvestment now place the neighborhood directly in the path of some of Raleigh’s largest civic investments.
The ongoing multi-million dollar transformation of Dorothea Dix Park has made Boylan Heights one of the most strategically valuable planning areas in the city due to its direct gate access.
Modern Planning: The Transit vs. The Park
Preserving the Edge
Oakwood is currently at the center of a major debate over how to balance historic preservation with high-frequency transit.
Raleigh’s first Bus Rapid Transit line is under construction along Oakwood’s southern edge, bringing new expectations for more intense development nearby. Along that corridor, zoning is shifting to encourage more housing and walkable, transit-supportive uses, introducing a different urban condition along the neighborhood’s southern boundary.
While the neighborhood fought to limit broad rezoning, nearby properties have been considered for townhome development to support transit ridership. Preservationists are now navigating how to incorporate more intense development around the neighborhood without losing the 19th-century scale of the interior.
The pressure is not just physical. It is economic, showing up in rising values and changing expectations at the edge.
The Dix Park Frontier
Boylan Heights is currently squeezed by massive city-shaping projects on its eastern and southern borders.
The relocation of Red Hat Amphitheater one block south to West Lenoir Street, along with the planned closure of South Street to support Convention Center expansion, has intensified concerns about how downtown growth will affect the neighborhood. Noise and spillover activity are making the neighborhood feel more directly connected to downtown than it has in decades.
Boylan Heights faces a more difficult question — whether a historic neighborhood can become a gateway to a major civic park without being overwhelmed by the value that park creates. Dix Park’s 308 acres are being transformed into one of the largest civic investments in Raleigh’s history, reconnecting downtown to a major public landscape through new trails, public spaces, and surrounding redevelopment.
Historic overlays limit how a neighborhood can grow. As demand increases, value is often concentrated within. Layered with an amenity like Dix, that level of investment can quickly accelerate property values beyond what existing residents can absorb.
Historic overlays and their impact
Historic overlays do not freeze a neighborhood. They decide how change is negotiated. Both Oakwood and Boylan Heights are governed by the same rules. But they don’t experience those rules the same way. The difference lies in what each neighborhood is being asked to accommodate.
In both neighborhoods, the historic overlay shapes how change happens. It’s guided by a set of “special character” essays that describe not just the buildings, but how the neighborhood is meant to work.
Even there, the emphasis is different. Boylan Heights leans into its identity as a planned, middle-class suburb, while Oakwood reflects a more individual, Victorian-era pattern of growth.
Historic overlays are not just about preserving buildings. They preserve patterns: the scale, the rhythm, and the way a neighborhood holds together over time.
The role of historic overlays becomes even more visible in moments of stress. At Shaw University, discussions around portions of the Prince Hall overlay highlight the tension between preservation and institutional survival. Even here, the question is not whether change will happen, but how much of the existing form must remain part of that change.
The question for Raleigh is not whether these neighborhoods will change. It is whether the city can use these tools to guide that change without losing the qualities that made them work in the first place.
The Living Laboratory
Oakwood and Boylan Heights are not museum pieces. They are working neighborhoods, shaped by old decisions and new pressures. One teaches Raleigh the value of continuity. The other shows how quickly proximity can become momentum. Together, they remind us that preservation is not the opposite of growth. At its best, it is one of the ways a city decides what kind of growth is worth carrying forward.
The question is not whether Raleigh will change. It already is. The question is whether it can grow while holding onto the patterns that made these places work in the first place.
What Oakwood and Boylan Heights offer Raleigh is not a blueprint to copy, but a way of thinking about growth. Both show that the physical structure of a neighborhood, including its streets, lot patterns, and relationship to surrounding investment, matters as much as the buildings themselves. As Raleigh continues to grow, the challenge will not be whether to preserve or redevelop, but how to align those decisions so that new investment reinforces, rather than erodes, the patterns that already work.






I really enjoyed this essay and learned alot. Thanks!